Our Day in Speyer

For most of us, Friday 13th was a sort of "day of rest". Julie, in her position as "CLOG history specialist" was very keen to visit Speyer with its historically important Cathedral. Of course, in CLOG, most of us, on our numerous walks and travels, have appreciated that apart from the traditional religious purposes, churches and cathedrals also often have an historical and cultural significance. We certainly found the centre of Speyer and its Cathedral worth a visit. We rounded off our Speyer trip by visiting what might unofficially be called "Finland in Speyer", enjoying what one does in these parts - a glass or so of beer.

Having climbed one of the two western towers, we get a good all-round view. On this side we look towards the two eastern towers and the distant valley of the Rhine. Basle in Switzerland lies quite a few kilometres to the south (to the right in this picture) along the valley.

Coffee

We came into the Old Town of Speyer by the last remaining town gate. Nearby we found a suitably located Italian café, where we stopped off for - would you believe - a cup or glass of coffee and, for the sweet-toothed - some cake. Suitably refreshed, we proceeded southwards along the high street to the Cathedral square.

This is already on the Cathedral Square, from where we see the last remaining town gate,
next to which we enjoyed our coffee.

Speyer Cathedral
Burial Place of Kings

Speyer is probably best known for its cathedral. Speyer Cathedral, for all its gaunt appearance, has a significant place in European history. Its construction was started in 1030 and is the largest Romanesque church in existence. Kings and emperors - Salians, Stauffer and Hapsburg - have been buried here. It is on the list of UNESCO World Heritage sites. We had a good look round and admired the view from the top of one of the western spires (65.60 m to be exact!). A fair bit of stair climbing, but worth the view. The crypt was also interesting, looking a bit like inside "la mezquita" in Cordoba.

Main (West) Entrance




Stark interior. Column upon column.




On a side wall of the ground floor, is what is probably a feast for historians.
Lots of crests and some Latin!




Having climbed the stairs of one of the west towers all the way to the top,
we can admire this view towards the north east and Odin's Forest.




The view is now slightly different, depending on where you look out!




On this side we look towards the two eastern towers and the distant valley of the Rhine. Basle in Switzerland lies quite a few kilometres to the south (to the right in this picture) along the valley.




From the high point to the low point.
The crypt is reminiscent of la mezquita in Cordoba,
especially the alternate red and white bricks that make up the arches.




Using GIMP, I managed to convert almost dark pictures - it's often dark in crypts - to something recognisable. A bit more tweaking of the picture would remove the slant of the columns, which were actually vertically straight!




This chap lives in the crypt. I don't know who he is, but he seems to have all the right equipment: crown, mace (or sceptre) and orb, and a lion to stand on.




These four gentlemen also live in the crypt, albeit they are a tad out of focus - mea culpa!
However, they each seem to have the necessary equipment:
crown, mace (or sceptre) and orb, but no lion to stand on.

Trinity Church

Speyer Cathedral, although Catholic, was rather gaunt in appearance, both within and without. In complete contrast we found the nearby protestant Trinity Church (inaugurated in 1717). Protestant churches are often noted for their simplicity and gaunt appearance. This one exuded the artistic ebullience often associated with Catholic places of worship. After our sightseeing, we had lunch in one of the numerous eateries in the cathedral square.

The outside has a Dutch appearance.




Within, the balconies suggest a protestant church, ...




... but the ebullience of the painting ...




... and of the gold leaf seem to be more in the Catholic tradition.
This ebullience reflects the style of the catholic Bavarian churches.

Finland in Speyer

Julie had perused some tourist information and suggested that, after our "culture-vulturing", we visit an acclaimed Polish restaurant near the Speyer Riding Club on the north side of town. This was in an area full of lakes, giving a feel of Finland, and indeed, parts of Poland. The restaurant was the "Kiosk zum Seeblick" (Open Restaurant with a view of the Lake) on the "Sonnensee" (Sun Lake). After first walking along the Rhine and then branching inland, we eventually found the said restaurant, where we spent a pleasant hour or so, enjoying some local beverage (beer).

Here is the view of the lake ...




... by which we are sitting.




Here we are again ...




... and again. No beer glass left unemptied.

Our Evening

Many of those in Julie's party stopped off at the "Red" Vegan Food restaurant near Heidelberg's main train station, while some of us, like the day before, took advantage of the excellent grocery shop in the High Street near the Lotte Hostel and enjoyed eating in at the hostel.